For many of us, time is a factor. As some have said time is indeed the fire in which we burn. This has made many DIY auto enthusiasts wonder, “How do you paint a car quickly”? To answer this question, I turned to the internet. There I found learnautobodyandpaint.com, a comprehensive out painting website that offered an excellent course on how to paint cars. I was delighted to learn from this course that there are ways to achieve an excellent looking paint job in an expeditious manner.

For example, one of the most time consuming sections is getting a color to paint your car. One could wonder, “How do you paint a car quickly with so many colors to get from”? You will be amazed at how lots of time people invest basically picking a color. It will be best to have your color chosen before visiting the store to purchase paint. This solely will save you time. To select a great color, simply take note of the models and makes which catch your eye, and then define them and their color to an auto body store clerk and they will frequently find out the precise shade you’re searching for.

Additionally, to paint a car quickly you will probably want all of your tools examined and ready to go prior to painting. Tools, which include spray paint guns, must be inspected prior to each use in order to ensure they are clean and in good working order. Failing to inspect guns adequately will spoil your paint job and may create problems just like orange peel. This will make you take even longer to complete your project when you attempt to rid your fresh paint of this undesirable problem.

Additionally, after you’ve some experience using automotive paint, you might like to attempt a single stage system. These paints have only one coat and don’t use clear coat. While a base coat/clear coat is much simpler to utilize, single stage paints is a bit speedier. I would recommend using these types just after you have finished a few projects as they possibly can be a bit tricky. You must also make sure to never mix these two paint systems. As you can get away with it sometimes, it often will force you to begin all over again.

So, how do you paint a car quickly? Following the above steps is truly a nice beginning, however there are a variety of other things you’re able to do to lessen the time you spend painting autos. Go to learnautobodyandpaint.com for more information on how to quickly paint a vehicle without sacrificing the quality of you paint job. There you will see a totally free blog packed with tips about car painting.

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Country roads can be slightly intimidating if you’re more used to driving around the city. However, safe driving on country roads is perfectly easy if you remember just a few things. Firstly, country driving isn’t fundamentally different from driving anywhere else. You still need to make sure that you’re in a fit state to drive and that your car is in good condition.

Secondly, make sure you plan ahead. Country roads can be harder to navigate than city roads, and it might not be as easy to correct yourself if you make a wrong turning. The last thing you want to do is be making last minute turns or paying more attention to a sat nav system than the road in front of you. Having a solid idea of the route you’re taking will make safe driving on country roads much easier.

Three – if you find a queue of cars suddenly lining up behind you don’t panic. The most important thing is that you keep to a speed at which you are in complete control. Don’t let frustrated drivers behind you compromise your safe driving. You should look for an opportunity to pull over when safe to let cars pass, especially when there are not opportunities for cars trailing you to safely overtake.

Watching out for other road users is the fourth tip for safe country roads. While driving along some country roads you may well come across pedestrians, people on horses, other animals and large farm vehicles. Make sure when passing pedestrians or animals that you slow right down and leave plenty of space so that country roads can be safe for everyone that uses them.

Five – use your headlights appropriately. Country roads are rarely lit by street lamps, so if there is no oncoming traffic putting your lights onto full beam will help you see the road ahead more clearly. This safe driving tip can lead to trouble if you don’t forget to revert to dipped headlights as soon as you see another oncoming driver however, so always stay alert.

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Thanks for joining me for another installment of the Auto Specialist. Since the last column, there have been two automotive news items worth noting. The first involves Saab, the Swedish car manufacturer. The past few years have seen the automaker struggling financially, to the point of having difficulty paying their suppliers. They recently sought bankruptcy protection in Sweden. A few days ago, their petition for protection was denied by the court. This could signal the end of Saab.

The second news item concerns Toyota Motor Corp. After reeling from the 2009 recalls and the recent earthquake in Japan, the automaker has decided to prioritize the Prius over other models. Sales for Toyota have been devastated over the last few years. The company has admitted that the move is an attempt to restore their viability.

In today’s segment, we’ll answer a question from Hank about the compression level in his Acura TL’s engine. We’ll also help Karen with a question she has about her CX-7′s fuel filter. Lastly, we’ll try figure out the reason Jeremy’s Camry won’t start. There’s a lot to cover, so let’s get started.

Question: I have a 2004 Acura TL with just under 82,000 miles. I took my car into the dealer’s service bay a few days ago for routine maintenance. I also had the technicians run a few tests. One of them told me the compression level in cylinders 2 and 4 is excessive. He mentioned that I should have the problem fixed before it damages the engine. Does that sound right to you? How is there too much compression in the engine?

Answer: Thanks for sending in your questions, Hank. The mechanic’s recommendation is sound. Here’s what is happening: one of the by-products of an engine’s combustion cycle is that it leaves carbon deposits behind. The deposits appear on the piston and along the inner wall of the combustion chamber. This occurs as the result of fuel being burned when the air-fuel mixture in the chamber ignites. The deposits cause the compression level to rise.

Excessive compression can lead to a problem called spark knock. The heat inside the combustion chamber rises to the point that the air-fuel mixture ignites erratically. This can eventually damage the piston and valves. I recommend having the issue resolved as soon as possible.

Question: I’m driving a 2008 Mazda CX-7 with 39,000 miles on it. I went into the dealer for an oil change recently, and the man who worked on my car said I should have a new fuel filter installed. I told him to go ahead and do it, but I’m wondering whether it was necessary. How frequently should I have the filter replaced?

Answer: Thank you for your question, Karen. A lot of people recommend replacing the fuel filter every two or three years. Others suggest doing so every time you have the oil changed. Ultimately, you should refer to your owner’s manual for the proper service interval.

That said, I prefer to change my fuel filter each time I change the oil. The reason is because the part is relatively inexpensive, and easy to install. It is akin to a low-priced insurance policy on the condition of the engine. If you drive very little, changing it every three years should suffice. But verify that with your owner’s manual.

Question: I own a 2002 Toyota Camry. It has over 135,000 miles on the engine. Last week, I got into the car to go to school, and it wouldn’t start. I can hear the engine trying to turn over, but nothing else happens. Can you tell me what is causing the problem?

Answer: Thanks for writing in, Jeremy. First, there’s no way I’ll be able to determine what is preventing your engine from starting without being able to check everything myself. The reason is because there are several components that might be causing the issue. That said, I can tell you that no-start problems are due to issues in the ignition system, fuel system, or with the level of compression in the cylinders.

Make sure your spark plugs are generating a spark; check to see whether fuel is reaching the combustion chambers; and perform a compression test on each cylinder. If you lack experience working on cars, I recommend having a trained mechanic perform these tests for you. He can also narrow down the component causing the lack of spark, fuel, or compression.

That’s it for today’s installment. Thanks again to Hank, Karen, and Jeremy for giving us a chance to answer their car-related questions. Join us for the next segment when we’ll have a new batch of car problems to diagnose. Until then, drive safely.

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The biggest engine, smoothest transmission, and most technologically-advanced components under the hood of your car mean very little if your tires are bad. If you neglect to replace them, they might fail and leave you and your family stranded. Furthermore, when your treads become severely worn, they present a safety risk. Road debris, such as rocks and other sharp objects, can puncture the treads and sidewalls, and cause a blowout. If you’re moving at high speeds when it occurs, you can potentially lose control of your vehicle.

It is critical that you inspect your tires on a regular basis to look for signs that they need to be replaced. Below, we’ll highlight some of the problems to look for. We’ll also discuss important issues regarding the type of replacements to buy for your car.

Identifying The Need For New Tires

The condition of your treads is integral to your safety as well as that of your passengers. As they wear down, steering response and traction diminish. This is the reason it is important to examine your tires every three or four weeks.

You can determine tread depth with a penny. Simply insert the penny with Lincoln’s head upside-down into the grooves. If the top of Lincoln’s head disappears into the grooves, your treads are fine. If it remains even with the tire’s surface, the depth of the grooves is 2/32″. At that point, they should be replaced.

If you typically drive in wet conditions, the depth of your treads is even more important. Consider replacing them when they reach 4/32″. You can identify this depth by inserting a quarter (with Washington’s head upside-down) into the grooves.

While inspecting your tires, look for indications of damage. Pay close attention to the sidewalls and the treads along the shoulder.

When You Need To Replace One, Two, Or The Entire Set

It’s not always necessary to buy a complete set of replacements. A single tire may have suffered damage from a nail, been vandalized, or developed severe wear due to an alignment problem. In such cases, assuming the rest of the set remain in good condition, you should purchase a tire that closely matches the others. It should be the same size, come from the same manufacturer, and have the same speed and load ratings.

The same guidelines should be followed when replacing two tires, but less priority can be given to buying them from the same manufacturer. As long as they are the same size, and offer identical speed and load ratings as the remaining two tires, they are fine. It’s important to note, however, that the new pair should be installed in the rear.

If you need to replace the entire set, you’ll have more flexibility. You can purchase tires that offer a smoother ride, longer life, better steering response, or a higher load rating.

Buying Tires To Fit Your Driving Conditions

Driving conditions clearly vary. Some areas receive substantial rain and snow, keeping the roads wet and slippery for a significant part of the year. Other areas receive little of each, and as a result, the roads remain dry. When purchasing new tires, think about the conditions in which you do most of your driving. Also, consider the type of driving you do.

For example, do you use your car mostly for short trips to the grocery store, coffee shop, and other places near your home? If so, nearly any type of tire will suffice. Do you drive long distances on freeways to and from your workplace? You’ll need treads that offer longer tread life and better steering response. If your area receives a lot of rainfall, consider buying winter tires that offer better traction. If you drive on roads covered with snow or ice, invest in a set of treads designed to burrow into both (again, for better traction).

When your tires reach the point at which they need to be replaced, make sure to buy a set that meets your needs. Resist the temptation to purchase the least expensive set since doing so may introduce problems down the road.

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In 1860 tienne Lenoir used an electric spark plug in his first internal combustion engine and is generally credited with the invention of the spark plug. A spark plug is an electrical device that fits into the cylinder head of some internal combustion engines and ignites compressed fuels such as aerosol, gasoline, ethanol, and liquefied petroleum gas by means of an electric spark. Spark plugs have an insulated central electrode which is connected by a heavily insulated wire to an ignition coil or magneto circuit on the outside, forming, with a grounded terminal on the base of the plug, a spark gap inside the cylinder. Spark plugs may also be used in other applications such as furnaces where a combustible mixture should be ignited. In this case, they are sometimes referred to as flame igniters.

It seems pretty obvious that a spark plug provides the spark that burns the fuel, but its secondary role as a heat dissipater is equally important. A spark plug’s ability to transfer heat to the car’s cooling system is based on the length of the insulator nose and the materials used for the center electrode and the insulator. The degree to which a spark plug disperses the heat it receives is called its “heat range”. Spark plugs with a high degree of heat dispersal are called high heat range (cold type) and those with a low degree of heat dispersal are called low heat range (hot type).
This is largely determined by the temperature of the gas inside the combustion chamber and the spark plug design.

Low heat range plugs have long insulator leg sections and the surface area affected by the flame and the gas pocket capacity are large. Also, since the heat release path from the insulator leg section to the housing is long, heat dispersal is low and the temperature of the center electrode rises easily. On the other hand, high heat range plugs have short insulator legs and the surface area affected by the flame and the gas pocket capacity are small.
Also since the heat release path from the insulator leg section to the housing is short, heat dispersal is high and the temperature of the center electrode does not rise easily.

Let’s locate your spark plugs. You may likely have an ignition system on your vehicle that does not incorporate a traditional spark plug wire. This technology is referred to as coil on plug. The spark plug will be located beneath the coil. There will be one coil for each spark plug. After removing the coil, you will have access to the spark plug. The plug itself may be several inches below the coil pack. It will be necessary in most coil-on-plug applications to use a 6-inch extension on top of the spark plug socket in order to reach the plug located deep in the cylinder head. Use a firm, not jerky, circular motion in a counterclockwise direction and remove the plug. Do the same for each spark plug.

Spark plugs in other type of ignition systems can be located by following the spark plug wire to the plug. Remove the spark plug boot carefully from the spark plug and, if necessary, mark it so you will be sure and put it back on the same spark plug it came off of. Do the same for every plug. Remove each plug as described above. Organize the spark plugs as you remove them in a manner that will allow you to identify the cylinder that the spark plug was removed from. After all the plugs are removed, inspect them. You’re looking for plugs that have a different color than the rest. The off-color plugs indicate some type of a problem in the particular cylinder they came out of. If you don’t have experience reading spark plugs, you might want to take them to your local technician and have him or her read them for you.

A matter of some debate is the “indexing” of plugs upon installation, usually only for high performance or racing applications; this involves installing them so that the open area of the spark gap, not shrouded by the ground electrode, faces the center of the combustion chamber, towards the intake valve, rather than the wall. Some engine tuners believe that this will maximize the exposure of the fuel-air mixture to the spark, also ensuring that every combustion chamber is an even in layout and therefore result in better ignition ; others, however, believe that this is useful only to keep the ground electrode out of the way of the piston in ultra-high-compression engines if clearance is insufficient.
Over the years variations on the basic spark plug design have attempted to provide either better ignition, longer life, or both. Such variations include the use of two, three, or four equally spaced ground electrodes surrounding the central electrode. Other variations include using a recessed central electrode surrounded by the sparkplug thread, which effectively becomes the ground electrode (see “surface-discharge spark plug”, below). Also there is the use of a V-shaped notch in the tip of the ground electrode. Multiple ground electrodes generally provide longer life, as when the spark gap widens due to electric distcharge wear, the spark moves to another closer ground electrode. The disadvantage of multiple ground electrodes is that a shielding effect can occur in the engine combustion chamber inhibiting the flame face as the fuel air mixture burns. This can result in a less efficient burn and increased fuel consumption.

Most spark plugs seal to the cylinder head with a hollow metal washer which is crushed slightly between the flat surface of the head and that of the plug, just above the threads. If the torque used to install the plugs is not excessive, the washer can be reused when the plug is removed and reinserted, although this practice is, strictly speaking, not recommended and replacement washers are available.
Ford engines, however, were once distinct in using a tapered hole and a matching taper on the bottom of the plug above the threads, in order to seal the plug. The torque for installing and removing these plugs was higher and it was easier to break them if the wrench was applied partially off axis.

The Orillia Home Inspector drives over 40 K a year and uses Champion Platinum spark plugs in his vehicle. He has found that changing his spark plugs every year gives better gas mileage and he has yet to have his vehicle start, even on the coldest mornings.

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